Musashi

Plates arriving from the kitchen quickly command attention for their sheer scale. Tucked into an alleyway in Higashi-Mukojima, Musashi draws praise for portions that seem out of proportion to its modest prices. The sashimi is sliced noticeably thick; beyond staples like tuna and squid, catches such as flying fish or whale make seasonal appearances, rewarding anyone visiting for seafood. House specialties like motsu nikomi, a braised offal stew served by the deep bowlful, and potato salad flanked by heaps of fresh vegetables demonstrate the kitchen's generous hand.

A cold bottled beer provides a natural start before switching to a brisk, strong chuhai or highball to accompany the food. Because the owner manages the entire counter alone, diners settle into the rhythm of the room, gauging the right moment between orders to call out. The tavern opens from 17:00 to 22:00 from Monday through Saturday, remaining closed on Sundays, and accepts PayPay and Rakuten Pay alongside cash. For an unpretentious solo drink, an order of fresh sashimi and a bowl of motsu nikomi is the obvious place to begin.